Whizzer engine problems


Local time
6:38 AM
May 28, 2008
Lebanon, Pa.
The whizzer ran good the first 100 miles. It's a 99 & had 10 miles on it when I got it & now I start it & runs good for a mile & starts missing bad. Replaced CDI, spark plug & checked carb & gas flow from tank. I ordered a new coil. It's the only thing left. Anyone had this problem? When I figure it out I'll have lots of extra parts & takes almost a week everytime I order a part for it to arrive.
Check your gas cap. Mine had no vent & did as you describe. When it starts missing just remove the cap & see if it runs fine again. If thats it then drill a small hole in the cap to vent. Mine had a huge vacuum release when I did that.
HI Guys , I can think of A couple of thing to check. 1 .check valve adjustment (exaust .008) (intake .006)..2 Gas cap vent..3 Is carb getting to hot..4 drain float bowl and look for rust or paint particals..5 Check fuel filter..6 check for junk on pre filter above fuel petcock.. Hope this helps Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer
still runnin bad

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll check valve clearance today. I did all the other stuff. last evening I was discussing my problem with a friend & we thought too about the gas cap. I just tried that & still bad. If nothing works today I'll have to wait for my new coil to arrive from TEXAS.Thanks a lot for your help though.
Hi jbcruisin,
If you order parts from me it usually arrives at your door in 2 to 3 days. I doubt the coil is your problem, because I have only sold 2 coils in the last 4 years, and both had a broken plug cap, not a electrical problem, of course I could be wrong. If you order parts from me [one of Whizzer's largest parts dealers], and if not damaged I offer a 100% parts return policy, but will not cover shipping cost.
Sounds like you may have a valve seat problem or a blown head gasket. You might want to consider upgrading to the NE cylinder kit [which I have 2 in stock] or elect to save money and only change the needed parts. I will be raising all my prices on june 30th, so if you want to discuss the options either PM me or call me at 252-475-0406 [cell]. And remember if you order parts from me and you don't need them to cure your problem, you can return them and I will refund all but the shipping costs. Normally electronic parts can not be returned, but I will because I would use the returned parts on my personal projects, and not offer them for resale. Of course this is easy to offer because I also offer serious troubleshooting [free] and very seldom [if ever] sell parts that aren't needed.

Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton "Lee" Guenther
Sounds great

Thank you Quenton. You sound like a great guy to do business with. I'll get in contact with you next week.
Bad runnin?

Hi, try loosening your air cleaner clamp, and try to run for just a minute, and see if the Air Cleaner is clogged.

still bad

Thank you to everyone for all the tips. I tried them all. Even pulled the head to check for a burnt valve. I guess I'll wait for my coil to arrive even though Like Quenton said it probably isn't that. I'll keep you updated on what I find.
engine update

Tore the cylinder off yesterday. Bad compression & only 150 miles on it. Took the plunge. Bought the upgrade kit from Quenton. What a great guy to deal with (hear that Quenton :). Can't wait to get it. Thanks again to everyone. I'll keep you all posted on the progress. Don't have to wear helmets in Pa. Told my wife "if it's too fast I'll have to start wearing a helmet".
Hi Jay,
Your kit left this morning. Just a few quick comments. Because you contacted me prior to the recent price increase, you saved dollars. On all kits I sell, I spend at least 2 hours of my time to make the parts 100% perfect. Your cylinder was "decked", the valve seats re-cut with a Neway #280 cutting tool, the valves were lapped, and liquid tested. The springs were replaced with Whizzer progressive springs [coil end against the valve guide]. The casting extrusions were removed [with a dremel grinder] from the exhaust port. The head combustion chamber was "smoothed" and any sharp edges removed. I also included two 7 MM bolts to replace the long studs on the earlier WC-1 motor. I included the instruction sheets, but is only a rough guide because some of the parts have been changed or ommited. I also modified a new air breather to fit your carburetor by changing the rubber mounting assembly.
It is important to note, that this kit is "stock", and the changes only make it closer to the original specs. I torqued the head onto the cylinder, just in case you don't have a torque wrench handy, but I used a copper head gasket, so if you need to remove the head the gasket can be re-used. The 8 MM bolts were torqued to 175 inch pounds, and the 10 MM bolts were set at 210 Inch pounds.
Please let everyone know your results with this kit.

Have fun,
Whizzer OuterBanks LTD
A North Carolina Corporation
Quenton "Lee" Guenther