Zeda80 engine build.(obtaining parts and game plan) (69.4cc)

My motor is finally purchased...i went with the pre sale option at $109 ,delivery im not sure when will take place..This will be somewhat of a slow build as im only expecting to invest so much per month towards the build and im in no hurry anyways..lol

You can find this particular motor and alot more sold through
ZedaMotorsports.com

Expect lots of before and after pics of the build.

Ill start with bottom end and show more as it happens.

So, heres the game plan for the bottom end build...To start, the motor will be taken apart and inspected prior to the changes and thoroughly cleaned.

(Bottom end)
1. Balanced crank (Zeda factory)
2. Lightened rod and pin
4 RB Tech 6202 2RS C3 (ABEC 3) premium crank and clutch bearings.
4. Upgrade upper rod bearing.
5. Seal retainer. (comes with motor)
6. Arrow (Red) metallic clutch pads

 

[Stoneman]

I would agree it would allow for less play

Couple points I would consider

How long would that play last?
Oil only compresses a certain amount and is thicker than water
So you don’t want it too tight and especially a bush
The movement of the rod going up and down would reduce those tolerances at the critical moment IMO and promote premature wear
I agree the oil would find its way in there but,
Oil would not flow freely so the bearing would flow less per revolution if that makes sense

And probably wouldn’t be a fan of pulling my engine down after every ride

Food for thought
All that said it would be good to see some hard testing

Not trying to stir anyone but I have found it interesting since I first read of people doing it

 

[6blueoval9]

On rc motors I've kept a motor lasting an entire season without any issues or failures...both the upper and lower use bushings so that's why it interest me.

I'm doing a few simple mods to improve oiling to the top end rather I try a bushing or stay with a bearing.

What bushings I've seen for these motors have a series of staggered holes drilled in them to allow lubrication so I'm not so sure it would be a an inadequate amount of oil causing excess wear.

I'm just looking for as little percentage of failure as possible with this build...I'd like to maybe use the bottom end for a couple or maybe a few different builds and be capable of supporting it.

I actually have planned to tear down at certain intervals to see where the attention will be needed most and try to keep it alive.

 

[Stoneman]

I have rc engines 10 years old as well, I was just using them as an example.

they are a lot lighter motors also the cost of making a micro bearing would blow the cost of an engine, the brass material would be sufficient in a rc motor

if you plan on pulling it down I doubt you will fall into a danger area of it being to late and causing damage anyway

I'm just not convinced they are better option, but I am stubborn

 

[6blueoval9]

My total number of nitro engines count is greater than 30 motors I haven't messed with in ages..lol...ranging from .12 to .32 motors.

 

[gary55]

I would first wonder how the oil gets in ihe internal of the bush to lubricate the pin

I would be sticking with roller bearing, you don’t see to many engines with bushes other than RC nitro engines.

Oil is forced into the rod bearings but not into the wrist pin bushings on old school engines. It would seem that if the bushing were pressed in with holes set and a groove like the babbits have would last longer, but I don't think longevity is the goal for those who are using these on china girls.