Zeda80 engine build.(obtaining parts and game plan) (69.4cc)

My motor is finally purchased...i went with the pre sale option at $109 ,delivery im not sure when will take place..This will be somewhat of a slow build as im only expecting to invest so much per month towards the build and im in no hurry anyways..lol

You can find this particular motor and alot more sold through
ZedaMotorsports.com

Expect lots of before and after pics of the build.

Ill start with bottom end and show more as it happens.

So, heres the game plan for the bottom end build...To start, the motor will be taken apart and inspected prior to the changes and thoroughly cleaned.

(Bottom end)
1. Balanced crank (Zeda factory)
2. Lightened rod and pin
4 RB Tech 6202 2RS C3 (ABEC 3) premium crank and clutch bearings.
4. Upgrade upper rod bearing.
5. Seal retainer. (comes with motor)
6. Arrow (Red) metallic clutch pads

 

[Street Ryderz]

My motor is finally purchased...i went with the pre sale option at $109 however ,delivery im not sure when will take place...This will be somewhat of a slow build as im only expecting to invest so much per month towards the build.

Expect lots of before and after pics of the build.

So here are the full plans for the build as some may have already read about on another thread of mine here.

Bottom end)
1. Balanced crank
2. Lightened rod,pin and piston.
3. SKF crank and clutch bearings
4. Stihl upper rod bearing.

Top end 100% stock..no major decking just re surfacing to ensure a flat surface for proper sealing on all surfaces.

So, a stock carb, stock cdi, stock air filter,stock exhaust ,plug etc.

After broken in and taken apart for cleaning and inspection the mild enhancing mods will begin as per below.

1. Transfer port edges in cylinder radiused and de-burred only..no knife edging at the bottom of the cylinder ..its my belief this causes excess turbulence in the chamberwhich leaves a large amount of excess fuel in the chamber that is never burned within the cycles..Some of the highest horsepower 2 strokes have zero knife edging performed for this reason.

2. Intake ports de burred and left with a very rough finish to enhance fuel atomization....the intake entry port will be radiused....no enlarging or port matching this time around.

3. Exhaust ports de burred and fully polished to a mirror like finish....the exhaust portentry will also be radiused...no port matching or enlarging this time around.

4. Stock intake manifold entry radiused only..no port matching at this point.

5. No port timing changes this time around.

Re assembled and the stock carb tuned as needed..Should results deem successful, it becomes time for me to add some mild basic mods for improvements.

1. high flow air filter
2. NGK 6 7 and 8 plugs for testing.
3. NGK plug wire and boot
4. OZ super magneto

Im including an OZ super magneto as i feel no matter what you buy ignition wise short of a jaguar or lightning ignition set up, the stock cdi will always provide a small weak spark...The OZ magneto will give the stock cdi a boost in spark energy.

5. Stock exhaust: There are some stock exhaust mods you can perform for maybe more top end power or more bottom endpower but i think at this stage anything short of a true power making expansion chamberwould yield little results.

So,this would bring me to adding a Zeda mz65 expansion chamber (aka MzMiamipipe).

Just this pipe alone can bring big power results with the proper carburetor and tuning so this is almost a must have as it should add a large percentage to your performance level even if no other changes or mods have been performed.

Testing will continue with a proper carburetor to compliment this level of performance in the form of a Mikuni VM16 carburetor...The stock 14mm NT carburetor will be put on the sidelines.

Why only a 16mm?...considering we dont have hogged out ports i want to keep a high level of air flow velocity within the motor for amazing throttle response and torque.

At this stage, a 16mm will provide plenty of air and fuel to feed the enhanced stock motor and could support even more power while keeping that crisp torquey throttle response.

A vm16 carb will require a flange adapteryou can find online.

Reaching this point i could call this a finished level of completion and enjoy as everything done i would very much expect to work well together as a "balanced" approach to improved performance.

Performance is more a proper combinationor balance of everything together as a whole rather than just throwing a bunch of random speed parts on your motor and carving out the grand canyon on your ports to find it may not work all that well.

That really doesn't make sence to me at all! Why do breakin stock untouched have the rings seated and then start changing stuff you would be better off building it the way you want it and break it in once and be done move on to tunning.

 

[6blueoval9]

That would defeat my purpose of the testing i want to do...what will it hurt breaking in before hand?...i want to tear the motor back apart anyways mods or no mods to cleanup whatever particles from the break in out and move on with it.

 

[Frankenstein]

That would defeat my purpose of the testing i want to do...what will it hurt breaking in before hand?...i want to tear the motor back apart anyways mods or no mods to cleanup whatever particles from the break in out and move on with it.

You shouldn't have to clean anything after break in, that's the whole idea behind premixing the oil. If it's dirty before you started using it then cleaning won't do diddly if you done it after.

What testing are you hoping to do? I highly recommend testing be done on a spare, use that to figure out how you'll tune what you're actually riding.

I'm probably talking to a brick wall but most of the results you'll see on a healthy engine and all combinations of ideas have probably already been seen and can be found by asking. Certainly if there was a problem with your choice of components someone would or will notice and let you know ahead of time, for the most part you should assemble the motor exactly as you'll be using it in the long run.

 

[6blueoval9]

You shouldn't have to clean anything after break in, that's the whole idea behind premixing the oil. If it's dirty before you started using it then cleaning won't do diddly if you done it after.

What testing are you hoping to do? I highly recommend testing be done on a spare, use that to figure out how you'll tune what you're actually riding.

I'm probably talking to a brick wall but most of the results you'll see on a healthy engine and all combinations of ideas have probably already been seen and can be found by asking. Certainly if there was a problem with your choice of components someone would or will notice and let you know ahead of time, for the most part you should assemble the motor exactly as you'll be using it in the long run.

Well, being new to these particular motors id like to see results in small increments as they eventually add up to whatever improvements ill end up with when finished..i dont like doing 5 changes at once as its hard to determine what happened if something doesnt turn out as expected.

Are you saying there wont be any metal particles from the break in with the rings and cylinder?..the motor will be torn down and thoroughly cleaned before its even ever started and broken in.

After the break in i want to tear it down again to inspect everything and since its all apart anyways im going to clean it up again before re assembly..im talking about the bottom end here.

Then ill reassemble the motor..add my regular oil mix and get some time in with tuning and see how it runs.

My results will be seat of the pants and mph numbers.

 

[6blueoval9]

Im sure some track numbers as well.

 

[Frankenstein]

The rings, unless producing chunks, won't make anything that will settle in the case, you constantly refresh what's going through there and the ultra microscopic stuff that comes from the wear is probably smaller than what your air filter will let in. I would not take it apart if I could help it after breaking it in.

At most with what you intend to add I would stave off on the exhaust, during break in you shouldn't be riding or tuning a powerband that generates more power and if tuned will need retuning after leaning the carb and oil ratios.

Of all the things on your list I would have expected to see a better head, of all the s**tty problematic parts the stock head is the biggest power stealer, and they warp somewhat easily compared to better heads. It would be beneficial if tuning in a pipe for more power to have a head can dissipate the extra heat generated, or at the very least absorb it and keep Temps down.


Again may as well put the CDI and mag and such on, they will probably produce a better spark and get the motor running at better pressures to dig the rings in, and a weak spark won't ignite as easily on a wetter richer plug/motor, so expect it to be a slightly less fun and reliable experience with so called sub par parts.

 

[6blueoval9]

The rings, unless producing chunks, won't make anything that will settle in the case, you constantly refresh what's going through there and the ultra microscopic stuff that comes from the wear is probably smaller than what your air filter will let in. I would not take it apart if I could help it after breaking it in.

At most with what you intend to add I would stave off on the exhaust, during break in you shouldn't be riding or tuning a powerband that generates more power and if tuned will need retuning after leaning the carb and oil ratios.

Of all the things on your list I would have expected to see a better head, of all the s**tty problematic parts the stock head is the biggest power stealer, and they warp somewhat easily compared to better heads. It would be beneficial if tuning in a pipe for more power to have a head can dissipate the extra heat generated, or at the very least absorb it and keep Temps down.


Again may as well put the CDI and mag and such on, they will probably produce a better spark and get the motor running at better pressures to dig the rings in, and a weak spark won't ignite as easily on a wetter richer plug/motor, so expect it to be a slightly less fun and reliable experience with so called sub par parts.

The only thing being done before break in is clean up and the bearings and the seal retainer...the rest as mentioned will be bone stock for break in.

A head will come at a later date..im actually not happy that the stock motor produces over 170psi with the stock head at sea level.

I was under the impression it would be less than 135 psi or even closer to just 100psi...so, yea i may have an issue here with a stock head but it wont be on there forever and im not after an all out power monster on this level of build.

I had no plans to tune with the mz pipe or even the better carb for break in...not sure where you got that from.

As far as a cdi..im starting with the stock cdi and just adding the oz magneto for a little more spark there.

Im still lost as to why its a bad idea to take the motor apart after break in..is there something i should know about that?

 

[Frankenstein]

The only thing being done before break in is clean up and the bearings and the seal retainer...the rest as mentioned will be bone stock for break in.

A head will come at a later date..im actually not happy that the stock motor produces over 170psi with the stock head at sea level.

I was under the impression it would be less than 135 psi or even closer to just 100psi...so, yea i may have an issue here with a stock head but it wont be on there forever and im not after an all out power monster on this level of build.

I had no plans to tune with the mz pipe or even the better carb for break in...not sure where you got that from.

As far as a cdi..im starting with the stock cdi and just adding the oz magneto for a little more spark there.

Im still lost as to why its a bad idea to take the motor apart after break in..is there something i should know about that?

For starters you'll break the seal on the base gasket, which has a better chance of leaking after taking it apart after being cycled, you'll also almost definitely unseat the rings, if you take the piston out just forget about them going back the same way, if you leave it in then don't twist the cylinder at all with the crank in the piston, and don't put the cylinder back on differently angled from where it was during break in (it has play on the studs a bit)

Taking the bottom end apart just asks for more trouble considering you are a novice and 2 strokes are picky animals that don't like being taken apart.

If you can absolutely manage to keep the piston where it was in relation to the cylinder then feel free to take it apart, I wouldn't bother, if you have sediment in the engine case then it's too late for the motor anyway because sediment is not supposed to be there. In a 4 stroke you have many more parts wearing and taking dips through the oil and even that is filtered out at a point and then cleaner oil is recirculated, if your 2 stroke has gunk in it that can cause a problem then the source of the problem isn't going to go away and you'll get more gunk, they don't have filters to clean what's floating around down there (they don't need it) so why go through the trouble to clean something that doesn't really exist until it's too late.

Think of it like this, if you are convinced that there will be engine killing gunk in the case after break in then why don't all of our engines break down from bearing problems in the case shortly after break in? Certainly if that was the case then an internal cleaning would be on the checklist for engine break in like what you see in a 4 stroke engine regarding the all important oil change.

 

[6blueoval9]

For starters you'll break the seal on the base gasket, which has a better chance of leaking after taking it apart after being cycled, you'll also almost definitely unseat the rings, if you take the piston out just forget about them going back the same way, if you leave it in then don't twist the cylinder at all with the crank in the piston, and don't put the cylinder back on differently angled from where it was during break in (it has play on the studs a bit)

Taking the bottom end apart just asks for more trouble considering you are a novice and 2 strokes are picky animals that don't like being taken apart.

If you can absolutely manage to keep the piston where it was in relation to the cylinder then feel free to take it apart, I wouldn't bother, if you have sediment in the engine case then it's too late for the motor anyway because sediment is not supposed to be there. In a 4 stroke you have many more parts wearing and taking dips through the oil and even that is filtered out at a point and then cleaner oil is recirculated, if your 2 stroke has gunk in it that can cause a problem then the source of the problem isn't going to go away and you'll get more gunk, they don't have filters to clean what's floating around down there (they don't need it) so why go through the trouble to clean something that doesn't really exist until it's too late.

Think of it like this, if you are convinced that there will be engine killing gunk in the case after break in then why don't all of our engines break down from bearing problems in the case shortly after break in? Certainly if that was the case then an internal cleaning would be on the checklist for engine break in like what you see in a 4 stroke engine regarding the all important oil change.

Ill consider leaving it assembled after break in.