Anything look wrong (pics)

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by wildkeith, Jul 3, 2008.

  1. wildkeith

    wildkeith New Member

    Here are some pictures from the engine kit that refuses to start. Anything look wrong to you?

    Fuel in bowl: check
    clutch engaging:check
    Explosion: :confused:

    I'm thinking that the carb isn't doing its job. I'm pretty sure its assembled correctly. Is the gas not making it out of the bowl? I mixed 5 ounces of Castrol 2-stroke motorcycle oil with a gallon of gas. Really, as frustrating as this is, I'm also having fun figuring out how these little things work :smile:

    Attached Files:

  2. motoschwinn

    motoschwinn Guest

    Well what I see

    Is a mess at the wiring... Whats the wire with all the exposed copper wire? I'd double check that area first.
  3. wildkeith

    wildkeith New Member

    Thats just the kill switch wires. Someone told me to take it off for testing. I am getting a spark, so that side of things is good.
  4. I dont think your clutch is adjusted right. Is that all the swing on the arm from engaged to disengaged? Are you sure the clutch is engaging? Sometimes it seems like it is but with the engine compression the clutch just slips, so the engine doesnt turn over to start the engine...
  5. lildeezul

    lildeezul Member

    thats about how much mine engages.. I tried adjusting the cable and such, and still thats it.
    Also when i lock the clutch it place, it stalls becuase the engine tries to pull... not should we go about adjusting it?

    also i going to install a pulley for the clutch cable like LARGE did, to make my clutch pull a little easier

    Lol... i ask a lot of questions huh? you seem to answer all of them Mister.. I greatly appreciate your help and advice
  6. Well maybe it is just me. One of the first things I did was to replace the kit clutch lever with a bicycle brake lever, which might have more pull to it, which makes the clutch arm move more, along with a new cable and some oil. As far as being able to lock I just have a large rubber strip that is on my left handlebar to hold the clutch lever in when I need it. To adjust the clutch I just pulled the cable thru the arm and tightened the brass nut, leaving just a little bit of movement in the arm, if it is pulled too tight the clutch will slip, making it hard to start, loss of power, and wearing out the clutch pucks prematurely. Then if you need to adjust you can do it under carby, or on the lever...
  7. mcassMB6

    mcassMB6 Member

    I'd be willing to bet my bike that your wires are touching which is shorting out. If you make sure they are clear from each other you'll turn it over.
  8. REMOVE your kill switch and throw it in the trash.
    Your welcome.
  9. And that green wire is that the ground? Taped to the CDI mounting screw? If your going to do it like that at least scrap the paint away under strap. I have mine grounded at the water bottle mounting bolt, a GOOD ground.
  10. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  11. wildkeith

    wildkeith New Member

    The kill switch has already been taken off. Thats what the visible wires are. I'm not actually grounding the switch on the screw, just holding the wire there. The blue and black connections are individually wrapped in electrical tape and I'm getting a perfect spark. Blue-Green, Black-Black. Could the wires inside the engine or CDI be backwards? My clutch is really tight, hence the little play, but it does fully engage. I wonder why it's so tight? If I tighten the cable anymore it won't engage and if I loosen it anymore it won't disengage. I have already gone through the troubleshooting guide about one hundred times. It's very useful and I'm thinking the carb isn't mixing the fuel and air correctly or it's flooding the engine. What happens inside the carb when you push the tickler? Thank you for all your help. I'll quadruple check everything mentioned
  12. The tickler just pushes down on the float when pushed. Allows you to manually add fuel to the bowl, even when it full. On the clutch look at the cable inside the outer jacket, mine was frayed when brand new, and was very hard to pull and would not release clutch.....Take your spark plug out and see if there is gas on the plug. Do you hear the pop pop pop when you try to start it?
  13. I know you did not Buy the motor Kit from Me( BlueCollarBike) But if you need some assistance And wish to give Me Or Grandpa Rick A call We will do our best to Diagnosis your Problem Over the phone In hopes to get you up and Running .

    Hope this Helps



  14. JohnnyLoves

    JohnnyLoves Member

    Hey Bluecollar, I couldnt help but notice the area code...any chance your up near the UConn area @ Storrs?
  15. UConn Is About an hour away.

    I'm west of Hartford.


  16. wildemere

    wildemere Member

    Try it with the idle set higher?

    Couple of starts with full choke & half throttle?
  17. Clutch arm. Loosen your cable. Now bring your clutch arm towards your engine until it doesn't want to go anymore with no effort. Tighten cable.
    When your clutch lever is out there should be very little play and no tension. In fact,it may be okay even to have a bit of play like a millimeter or two when you depress your clutch before your clutch arm starts disengaging your clutch.
    It really looks like in that pic that you wanted total free play when you depress your clutch. That's all well and good but you also want total clutch engagement when you let go of your lever. That looks like your clutch is not fully engaged.
    When you pedal off and release your clutch does your engine spin?

    Sorry for sounding Romper Room but we gots to look at everything.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 4, 2008
  18. wildkeith

    wildkeith New Member

    I have combustion! The problem was so simple, but a big one. Apparently the engine wasn't getting any fuel or air from the carb. The throttle piece that goes down was completely blocking the intake to the engine. All I had to do was unscrew the ring where the throttle cable meets the carb counterclockwise a couple times which pulled the throttle piece up a bit inside the carb. Now I can tighten everything up and make the wiring more neat. Thanks to everyone who offered their help. I really appreciate it. It runs a littler slow right now (doesn't really make it up a hill:???:), but i have heard that gets better. Happy times! :grin:

    Attached Files:

  19. Are you sure you dont have the slide in upside down? I wouldnt use the adjustment on top to set the idle (position of the slide) use the screw on the side.......
  20. wildkeith

    wildkeith New Member

    Hey mister,
    The slide is on right. I think when i installed it i tightened that ring to much. I still have the idle set to 4.5 turns. It runs pretty smooth, so I think everything is okay now.We'll see in the next few days. Thanks again for your input :) I'll post back as things get broken in.