Engine wont run, so confused

I'd get a leaner jet (stock is "70") and set the needle all the way down (clip in top position) Yes, Frankenstein, I've seen very shoddy assembly, too! I actually got one from a famous (infamous) ebay vendor that had the float pin rattling around the bottom of the bowl. Don't take anything for granted on these kits!
 
What size would you recommend? But it did run so how could this be the problem?
 
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What size would you recommend?
People must stop asking that, the jet size is entirely dependent on YOUR motor, nobody else's, anything you change will change how the bike runs and that changes the jet, needle, and idle.

The only way to answer that question is to tell you to learn how to dial in your carburetor. If you can't handle it it's best to go to a mass produced engine with computerized fuel injection, or just ride it around a little rich and enjoy the bike you have.

You'll find the right jet faster by trying different jets than you ever could by asking questions like that on the internet.
 
People must stop asking that, the jet size is entirely dependent on YOUR motor, nobody else's, anything you change will change how the bike runs and that changes the jet, needle, and idle.

The only way to answer that question is to tell you to learn how to dial in your carburetor. If you can't handle it it's best to go to a mass produced engine with computerized fuel injection, or just ride it around a little rich and enjoy the bike you have.

You'll find the right jet faster by trying different jets than you ever could by asking questions like that on the internet.
Just doing a little port-matching or changing air filter or exhaust will mean a different jet size. These NT carbs (Dellorto clones) are very easy to tinker with, and run amazingly well with the right jet and needle height. Some are so into it that they actually solder and drill their own! Personally, I just go with a slightly leaner than stock (70) jet and ride the wee out of it!
 
Just doing a little port-matching or changing air filter or exhaust will mean a different jet size. These NT carbs (Dellorto clones) are very easy to tinker with, and run amazingly well with the right jet and needle height. Some are so into it that they actually solder and drill their own! Personally, I just go with a slightly leaner than stock (70) jet and ride the wee out of it!
That's how it's done, and also I don't think the nt and the Dellorto clone are the same thing, it's the nt carb which is stock, has a main jet and a needle setting, while the Dellorto clone (people refer to it as a racing or speed carb at times) only has the jet to deal with, the slide is a simple one piece jig that has no real adjustment.

Some carbs use a different jet for the same motor even when it's the same exact make of carb, either the tolerances between part sizes is as big as my thumb or we are stumbling on a portal to a different universe with a slightly different air density...
 
Disconnect the kill switch, to stop if it gets started pop the plug. make sure your 6v wire is insulated away from the frame or metal..make sure your stater wires didn't melt to the exhaust.Get going down hill and pop the clutch let the motor bog for a bit see if it starts to jerk a bit ....when it starts to jerk its firing pull in the clutch.give it revs then see if it can idle...i set my nt idle at 4 1/2 turns out at sea level. Make sure your nt carb doesn't leak and your float isn't stuck or flooded. make sure the wire connectors are insulated from the frame.Make sure your clutch is grabbing.it should be about an eighth of an inch from the pads when engaged.take the stater out and lightly sand the backside where it touches the engine housing. careful not to get anything in there.make sure you have 1:16 oil for first 100 miles. Check the jet make sure you can see light through the hole.
 
no, folks usually unhook that when testing for no start condition
 
dunno, thread is long and confusing now

carefully go through no-start steps and try a new thread with most current results
 
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