impression
Member
help me please, i cant get the plate off that sits in front of the sprocket. those 3 screws just wont budge
BoltsMissing
Active Member
Irish John
Personaly I think it was Daimler, but MGB and Jags tried it, not sure if US of A followed suit, any clues who started the magnet on sump plugs ??
impression
Get a Vice Grip Pliers on the handle of the screwdriver, push, hold firm and use the the pliers to help lever off the screws.
Replace the screws.
I used Allen Key bolts. They come in a assortment of tensions, colors and sizes.
Mine are black, because I like the color black, some are chrome, some are nickel plated.
If the head of the Allen Key Bolt is larger than the hole on the plate, slightly trim the head of the bolt with a file,grinder, emery or even a knife sharpening stone. Do not try to enlarge the hole in the alloy plate because it might weaken the plate around the edges.
Use the correct size Allen Key spanner and add to your tool kit for future use.
No need to over tighten, try nail polish from garage sales to lock them in, cost about 50 cents a bottle.
That way you can use nail polish remover if you have to remove the bolts in future.
Warning !
I attempted a lady friend's nail polish, and got in trouble to even think of it.
It was expensive nail polish.
Loktite is ok to, but not sure if nail polish remover removes Loctite.
No Probs, But I still can't seem to remember who started the idea about magnets on sump plugs. Was it the Japs. when Mazda first arrived to our shores, or did they copy that idea from the Queen of E's. Bently ?
Personaly I think it was Daimler, but MGB and Jags tried it, not sure if US of A followed suit, any clues who started the magnet on sump plugs ??
impression
Get a quality Philips ( Star shaped) screwdriver, large and tap it dead centre on the screws head.
Get a Vice Grip Pliers on the handle of the screwdriver, push, hold firm and use the the pliers to help lever off the screws.
Replace the screws.
I used Allen Key bolts. They come in a assortment of tensions, colors and sizes.
Mine are black, because I like the color black, some are chrome, some are nickel plated.
If the head of the Allen Key Bolt is larger than the hole on the plate, slightly trim the head of the bolt with a file,grinder, emery or even a knife sharpening stone. Do not try to enlarge the hole in the alloy plate because it might weaken the plate around the edges.
Use the correct size Allen Key spanner and add to your tool kit for future use.
No need to over tighten, try nail polish from garage sales to lock them in, cost about 50 cents a bottle.
That way you can use nail polish remover if you have to remove the bolts in future.
Warning !
I attempted a lady friend's nail polish, and got in trouble to even think of it.
It was expensive nail polish.
Loktite is ok to, but not sure if nail polish remover removes Loctite.
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impression
Member
ok this is annoying, i am contemplating smashing this thing to bits those 3 screws just wont undo.
I have tried the hammer tap + screws.
different screwdrivers, philips and flatheads
tried with the ratchet + screwdriver bits
tried with a drill + screwdriver bit and still no luck
this is hopeless
I dont have vice grips though :/
I have tried the hammer tap + screws.
different screwdrivers, philips and flatheads
tried with the ratchet + screwdriver bits
tried with a drill + screwdriver bit and still no luck
this is hopeless
I dont have vice grips though :/
BoltsMissing
Active Member
Well, you have a few choices, smashing it is not a choice.
Go to a mechanic's workshop, they got the tools for these stubborn screws and loosen all of them on both sides of the engine.
Or get a vice grips to give you leverage.
Not sure what type of tools you are using cos there are tools and then there are tools.
I guess by now the head of those three screws would be hopeless to be grabbed by any screwdriver, so a mechanic will get them off in no time with drill and ezi-outs.
That's all you have to do and simply repalce them with Allen Key bolts, you'll only have to do this once and the problem is solved on that scenario of things.
Post some pics so we can see the extent of the problem, along with some pics. of the screwdrivers you used. A good quality screwdriver ought to grab those butter-soft screwheads.
Go to a mechanic's workshop, they got the tools for these stubborn screws and loosen all of them on both sides of the engine.
Or get a vice grips to give you leverage.
Not sure what type of tools you are using cos there are tools and then there are tools.
I guess by now the head of those three screws would be hopeless to be grabbed by any screwdriver, so a mechanic will get them off in no time with drill and ezi-outs.
That's all you have to do and simply repalce them with Allen Key bolts, you'll only have to do this once and the problem is solved on that scenario of things.
Post some pics so we can see the extent of the problem, along with some pics. of the screwdrivers you used. A good quality screwdriver ought to grab those butter-soft screwheads.
impression
Member
thanks for the reply. This is getting quite frustrating and stressfull as you could imagine
umm yah i was thinking about going to a workshop.
i'm not using the most expensive tools, and my brother has taken my camera this morning and wont be back until tomorrow afternoon some time.
the heads of 1 of them is ruined. the other 2 are not too bad.
umm yah i was thinking about going to a workshop.
i'm not using the most expensive tools, and my brother has taken my camera this morning and wont be back until tomorrow afternoon some time.
the heads of 1 of them is ruined. the other 2 are not too bad.
impression
Member
Ok, i got it all off and now i'm filing the sprocket tooth down.
I don't have the special sprocket tool as it didn't come with my kit. I'm trying to file it with a small file while it's still attached to the motor lol.
it's taking some time but i have made progress.
I don't have the special sprocket tool as it didn't come with my kit. I'm trying to file it with a small file while it's still attached to the motor lol.
it's taking some time but i have made progress.
BoltsMissing
Active Member
OK, inside there, is a pin and a ball bearing. Check to see if the ball bearing is correctly case hardened by striking it on a file.
If a file scratches the bearing, then go get another bearing of the same size at the bearing shop.
Get a few for spare.
Add plenty of grease where the pin and bearing work.
If a file scratches the bearing, then go get another bearing of the same size at the bearing shop.
Get a few for spare.
Add plenty of grease where the pin and bearing work.
So its been a while since anyone has hit this thread but..... was qurious to know if anyone has replaced their drive sproket with a larger #41 11t,10t, or 9t drive sprocket. Was wondering if there would be any alignment or clearance issues. Thanks
arkives1
Member
How to remove drive sprocket.
So far my sprocket has refused to move despite my desperate pleas of "have mercy on me" I need to remove it because it's either defective , ground too thin or has a missing spacer behind it. The drive chain hits the inner wall behind the sprocket and drags across the bulge where the engine mounting studs are located. Chain alignment is not the issue, there simply is not enough clearance behind the sprockt. Anyone else run into this problem? Perhaps I can put a thin washer behind it to move it forward a wee bit more.
I'm using a jack shaft with this engine so the rear sprocket is free to move for alignment (haven't tightened it down yet) This is how I know alignment is not the issue. I can't see behind the sprocket to see what grinding is going on but I can see it on the bulge of the studs and have shaved that down a bit and the chain is clearing that portion of the motors body. Woody
So far my sprocket has refused to move despite my desperate pleas of "have mercy on me" I need to remove it because it's either defective , ground too thin or has a missing spacer behind it. The drive chain hits the inner wall behind the sprocket and drags across the bulge where the engine mounting studs are located. Chain alignment is not the issue, there simply is not enough clearance behind the sprockt. Anyone else run into this problem? Perhaps I can put a thin washer behind it to move it forward a wee bit more.
I'm using a jack shaft with this engine so the rear sprocket is free to move for alignment (haven't tightened it down yet) This is how I know alignment is not the issue. I can't see behind the sprocket to see what grinding is going on but I can see it on the bulge of the studs and have shaved that down a bit and the chain is clearing that portion of the motors body. Woody
AussieSteve
Active Member
Hi Woody. I'll assume that you have a puller as supplied with most kits.
Generally, when using that type of puller, tighten the 14mm bolt as far as you can, then tap the head with a steel, (not rubber, as suggested), hammer. Tighten more, tap more, etc.
Don't give up. Like dropping a ball joint in a car, it'll loosen eventually. Usually just when you think it'll never come loose and aren't expecting it.
Don't hit too hard, either.
I also used water-pipe on the 14mm socket's wrench handle, when removing the clutch using the supplied tool, to increase leverage.
... Steve
Generally, when using that type of puller, tighten the 14mm bolt as far as you can, then tap the head with a steel, (not rubber, as suggested), hammer. Tighten more, tap more, etc.
Don't give up. Like dropping a ball joint in a car, it'll loosen eventually. Usually just when you think it'll never come loose and aren't expecting it.
Don't hit too hard, either.
I also used water-pipe on the 14mm socket's wrench handle, when removing the clutch using the supplied tool, to increase leverage.
... Steve
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