No start... Sorry in advance for being a moron...

[Search]

Okay, instead of making a new thread, I'm just gonna add to this one and hope someone sees it. I have another stupid question. Is there any in depth videos on YouTube or something I could watch that explain exactly how to ride this?? I keep getting it started and going good and then stall out when I come to a stop... I feel like an idiot for asking this but I would feel like even more of an idiot if I ruined the engine for being too proud to ask a stupid question lol.

Also re: chain ... never cleaned it... I just live in FL... it rains and it's humid.. that's just from being outside for two weeks... I ran out of wet lube from my mtb and will be getting some delivered shortly... but I will keep in mind to upgrade to a better chain at some point, thank you.

 

[Search]

I would soak it in some WD-40 to get rid of that rust and wipe it down and then really soak it good in some 2 cycle oil and then wipe all the excess oil off of it.

As far as the chain length, see if it MAY be possible to just get rid of the tensioner altogether like what I have done on my bike...You might have to adjust things like bringing the rear rear a little more forward or backwards etc to do this.

Here is mine with no tensioner after I did it for mine with two different motors...I have that same 36 tooth sprocket in the rear like you do...I also had to custom maket the pedal chain to size when I did this to make it match the drive chain...I also use the 22 tooth freewheel sprocket on the pedal side as I got rid of the coaster brake wheel...It is also one less thing to go wrong as well...lol...Just another additional thought if ya like it...lol.

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sick bike... I kinda wish I went to cruiser route just to upgrade to the mag wheels (and also the 700c wheels are a little skinny, kinda sketches me out lol)... maybe after I get this one going I'll use this one for cruising at slower speeds and build a 26er that I'd feel more comfortable going faster on... although I'm sure once I get used to it, the 700 will feel more normal

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Okay, instead of making a new thread, I'm just gonna add to this one and hope someone sees it. I have another stupid question. Is there any in depth videos on YouTube or something I could watch that explain exactly how to ride this?? I keep getting it started and going good and then stall out when I come to a stop... I feel like an idiot for asking this but I would feel like even more of an idiot if I ruined the engine for being too proud to ask a stupid question lol.

Also re: chain ... never cleaned it... I just live in FL... it rains and it's humid.. that's just from being outside for two weeks... I ran out of wet lube from my mtb and will be getting some delivered shortly... but I will keep in mind to upgrade to a better chain at some point, thank you.

Are you pulling in the clutch when you go to slow down and stop? Sounds like a silly question to ask, but sometimes we do silly things.

To save the chain, and to get at all of the rust you can try the following. First, you can soak the whole chain in vinegar. Acetic acid is really good at removing iron oxide, and the amount is so low it wont harm the non-corroded steel. Second, rinse well and then use some WD-40 or kerosene to disperse/displace the water and help new surface rust from forming and then let it dry. Third, give the chain a soak in some 90-140w gear oil for a while. Bonus points if you can heat the oil to help it get between the rollers and pins.

I've done this to multiple chains that were worse than yours and they gave thousands of miles of service.

Or, just spend 10-20 bucks on a good chain lol

 

[Search]

Are you pulling in the clutch when you go to slow down and stop? Sounds like a silly question to ask, but sometimes we do silly things.

To save the chain, and to get at all of the rust you can try the following. First, you can soak the whole chain in vinegar. Acetic acid is really good at removing iron oxide, and the amount is so low it wont harm the non-corroded steel. Second, rinse well and then use some WD-40 or kerosene to disperse/displace the water and help new surface rust from forming and then let it dry. Third, give the chain a soak in some 90-140w gear oil for a while. Bonus points if you can heat the oil to help it get between the rollers and pins.

I've done this to multiple chains that were worse than yours and they gave thousands of miles of service.

Or, just spend 10-20 bucks on a good chain lol

Yessir... I'm pulling in the clutch when I'm slowing down... it's when I come to a complete stop that I stall out, unless I keep revving it... I can't get it to idle without stalling... (it doesn't help that when I go to take off again, sometimes I forget to pedal and stall out) but that's only a sometimes issue...

I'll probably just wind up buying a better chain, just gonna lube this one up a little and then when I get the bike going 100% I'll replace it with a better one, not that concerned about it (yet) it's literally only been on the bike 2 weeks lol

 

[machanic]

Yessir... I'm pulling in the clutch when I'm slowing down... it's when I come to a complete stop that I stall out, unless I keep revving it... I can't get it to idle without stalling... (it doesn't help that when I go to take off again, sometimes I forget to pedal and stall out) but that's only a sometimes issue...

I'll probably just wind up buying a better chain, just gonna lube this one up a little and then when I get the bike going 100% I'll replace it with a better one, not that concerned about it (yet) it's literally only been on the bike 2 weeks lol

When you approach a stop with the clutch in and then come to a complete stop does it seem like the engine is still pulling the bike

 

[GW's Motorized]

You should take the time to clean the chain. The best lubricant for a chain I have found is 5th wheel grease. It makes a mess, but it sticks good and protects the chain.

 

[Search]

When you approach a stop with the clutch in and then come to a complete stop does it seem like the engine is still pulling the bike

Hmm... I don't THINK so but tomorrow after work , I will take a closer look... I really appreciate all your help man. You've been a God send!! Thank you so much.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Hmm... I don't THINK so but tomorrow after work , I will take a closer look... I really appreciate all your help man. You've been a God send!! Thank you so much.

The easiest way to check is to get the rear wheel off the ground when it's fired up and disengage the clutch. If the rear wheel is spinning you need to adjust your clutch.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Hmm... I don't THINK so but tomorrow after work , I will take a closer look... I really appreciate all your help man. You've been a God send!! Thank you so much.

The easiest way to check is to get the rear wheel off the ground when it's fired up and disengage the clutch. If the rear wheel is spinning you need to adjust your clutch.

If you find that the wheel still turns with the wheel off the ground whilst holding in the clutch lever so the clutch is disengaged whilst the motor is running , follow the instructions in link below to properly adjust it correctly.

2Stroke clutch always either engaged or disengaged

Hello so i'm having some problems, after having to change some parts in my clutch, including clutch pads and etc, the clutch is always disengaged for whatever reason, i've tried adjusting the clutch spring that is inside, wont help, ive tried adjusting the cable also wont help, any more ideas...

motoredbikes.com

 

[Chainlube]

Here is a video of the spark plug out and me pushing the bike while holding down the clutch lever

New video by Jason Sierchio

photos.app.goo.gl

The clutch has to be released not pulled in.