Ring gap

I meant to say The gap is smaller. So with my smallest gauge being 012 The feeler gauges too big to fit should I get smaller ones
I would want to know what the actual ring gap is. If it's too tight of ring end gap it will score your new cylinder up. I think ring end gap is 1 of the most important/critical parts of building a engine. For giggles check a ring end gap on your old cylinder you took off. So your smallest feeler gauge is .012". Most auto parts stores carry a set of feeler gauges that are from .001-.030" I would try to get a set & check your ring end gap again.
 
No I would hate to see you mess up a new cylinder kit, cause I'm sure that's a $160-$200 cylinder kit. Better be safe than sorry.
 
since I have this thread open il just ask here. I put the gaskets and the spacer on last night to check for exhaust port clearance. With the piston at bottom dead center the piston is pretty much almost even with the bottom of the exhaust port so it opens all the way. I put everything together for a squish test. My result is 1.78 mm. With minimum squish clearance for my understanding is 0.6 to 0.8 mm. Should I grab a piece of flat steel and sand down the top of the cylinder a little bit less than a millimeter. If so what sandpaper.
 

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Use plate glass or polished granite countertop. But 1st which way did you set your solder in the cylinder to check your squish gap? Did you put a piece of solder long enough to go from cylinder wall to cylinder wall. Then I think you need to sit your solder with the direction of rod travel. Basically from intake to exhaust port. Somebody correct me if wrong.
 
As far as squish gap, I think I would shoot for .7mm or .8mm. Also if you are using a adapter plate with gaskets remove the gaskets & recheck your squish gap without cylinder base adapter gaskets. See what kind of reading you get then. It might be a cylinder kit where its met for hondabond on the cylinder base adapter & no gaskets.
 
Thanks for the response guys. The crank case is recessed, The spacer sits on top I'll show you a picture you'll see what I'm saying so I don't think I could remove the base gasket.

The other issue with removing the base gasket,t is that my exhaust port is pretty much all the way open with the very minimum room to play with the way it is now. I have 1 1/32 gasket from the cylinder to the spacer and another one from the spacers to the case.

I ended up buying a flat piece of steel before I read your guys response. I sat there at work and sanded the head down up against the steel plate with 160 220 and 400 grit. In every shape kriss Kross I can think of.

There was a few scratches on the head that disappeared. With that being said ,I got home, I did another squish test, This time the same direction as the exhaust port. Yesterday I did it the opposite direction. And somehow I got the same reading. Which is completely blowing my mind and confusing the hell out of me to the point that I had to just leave it for tonight. I can't wrap my head around this.lol
 

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Thanks for the response guys. The crank case is recessed, The spacer sits on top I'll show you a picture you'll see what I'm saying so I don't think I could remove the base gasket. The other issue with removing the base gaskit is that my exhaust port is pretty much all the way open with the very minimum room to play with the way it is now. I have 1 1/32 gasket from the cylinder to the spacer and another one from the spacers to the case.
I ended up buying a flat piece of steel before I read your guys response. I sat there at work and sanded the head down up against the steel plate with 160 220 and 400 grit. In every shape kriss Kross I can think of. There was a few scratches on the head that disappeared. With that being said ,I got home, I did another squish test, This time the same direction as the exhaust port. Yesterday I did it the opposite direction. And somehow I got the same reading. Which is completely blowing my mind and confusing the hell out of me to the point that I had to just leave it for tonight. I can't wrap my head arouto nd this.lol
And you will keep getting the same measurement because sanding the head wont change it, all your doing is reducing the chamber volume (cc's) and squish area % in the head.

You need to deck the cylinder top (deck) by around 1mm if you have 1.78, you can tape the piece of solder on the piston top so that you can get a good reading between any ports doesn't really matter because you are doing this above the ports just rotating the piston top through tdc to make the impression,

Some, myself included, like to put the solder parallel to the wrist pin as the should be the highest point of piston crown and make the solder touch the bore (at least one side).

Reducing the spacers thickness (gauge) is not a bad thing and having some of the crown above the exh port floor common practice as it's not what you think going on at that point.

At bdc all the pressure from combustion has been expelled all ready soon after the port was opening then a vacuum is created behind it and this is at about half open maybe a bit less.

That vac now aids in pulling fresh charge up the transfers and then reverts before bdc to act as a blocker so that as the piston starts to rise that fresh charge isn't all being pushed out the exh port to be lost in the pipe, so at bdc the flow is reverted and a bit of crown above the floor actually helps in many cases because it creates swirl and aids keeping more fresh charge in there rather than being pushed out.

Also lowering the cylinder to get correct squish clearance at tdc plus the gain in compression is better at times than decking the cylinder top, you can now raise the port roofs for far greater durations if you want gaining better flow for high rpm or leave them and get more bottom end you have a choice but if you deck it the choice is gone and durations (timing) will be higher.

Moderators Note:
Hi SR...I broke up the Great Wall of China, (text), that you erected here which had no breaks in sentences or paragraphs etc. but also no punctuation whatsoever to make your post more readable...I came across it the way you wrote and thought I was gonna go blind...lol.. as well as deaf and dumb...lol...lol.
 
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