Don't run without a filter. Do like Jag did or get an oiled gauze filter, or even keep running the stock one. No filter will equal no cylinder very soon.

Steve
Not even on a test run down the block and back?
1? ER 200 YARDS? The more I think about it you're probably right because anything can get in there At any time.
IE: I Wiped out 2 feet off my driveway on my regular 29" Giant. No Motor. Left crank it the Blackhawks did a 360 hit the back of my right ankle 10 stitches and a broken toe.
Typos. Black top not DA-HAWKS.
Cranks and pedal did a 360
 
What's up with the no filter issue??? Ive ran mine like that for about 150 miles no issues. I just haven't rejetted it yet (which I need to do)
A quick 1-2 mile ride will not hurt it (unless your in a rocky dusty area)

I was just saying to use it as test to see if he was running rich. Quick easy test.
NOT PERMANENT
Didn't mean to step on no toes, and your right it is pretty rocky and dusty up here in Prescott Az. A lot of the kids up here will ride without the filters or even exhaust cause they can't afford to replace them when broken or stolen. It's just a sad fact that I see a lot of destroyed cylinders due to this. I invested in a trainer and took the resistance wheel off so I can test engines and adjust chain allignment without leaving my front porch.
 
Not even on a test run down the block and back?
1? ER 200 YARDS? The more I think about it you're probably right because anything can get in there At any time.
IE: I Wiped out 2 feet off my driveway on my regular 29" Giant. No Motor. Left crank it the Blackhawks did a 360 hit the back of my right ankle 10 stitches and a broken toe.
Typos. Black top not DA-HAWKS.
Cranks and pedal did a 360
I think if you stuck your crank into DA-HAWKS ten stitches and a broke toe woulda been gettin off lite. OHHHHH.
 
Alright I've been reading these replies to your question. What will fix your problem right away is to move the spacer on the needle in the carburetor from the third from the top to the Second notch, this still make the engine run leaner and a lot better than the stock option.

Here is a great guide on doing that: http://motoredbikes.com/threads/nt-carb-tuning-basics.24867/

Do not remove your air filter that is just a stupid idea and will not help you one bit if a small rock or even some dirt particles get in there you will have a lot of unnecessary wear. Go get yourself a aftermarket air filter if you really want to replace it.

Like someone Said run full synthetic 2 stroke oil 32:1 about 157ml per 5L, this is the ratio I have used for years and I find it works the best. Replace the stock engine bolts, sick bike parts has a kit for that but you can use 12.9 Grade steel M6 socket cap, 40mm, 25mm and 35mm to replace all the engine bolts get about 12 of each so you have extras and get some locktight red to keep them from vibrating loose this causes air leaks and loss of power, it happens super fast on these engines within a few short rides. You also get the bolt kit from Sick bike parts but it's not the strong stuff only grade 5 so your better off getting the 12.9 grade stuff from fastenal, plus it's much cheaper.

Links to everything I mentioned.

https://www.permatex.com/products/t...permatex-high-temperature-threadlocker-red-2/
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-272...sr=1-2&keywords=High+Temperature+Threadlocker
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/39571term=m6+40mm&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600039 Sockets"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600040 Socket Cap Screws"|~ ~|sattr06:^"Class 12.9"$|~
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/1139570?term=m6+35mm&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600039 Sockets"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600040 Socket Cap Screws"|~
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/1139568?term=m6+25mm&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600039 Sockets"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600040 Socket Cap Screws"|~
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=43

Some good oils recommendations:
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10...682900&sr=1-27&keywords=Synthetic+2-Cycle+Oil
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power-TTS-100-Synthetic/dp/B001KOHX0U
https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple...8682873&sr=1-1&keywords=Synthetic+2-Cycle+Oil

I've been using that Lucas oil Snowmobile fully synthetic for a bit and it's killer stuff and a good price where I live, you can use it in al 2 cycle applications for air or water cooled engines.


Grab yourself a new spark plug, NGK B6HS, BP6HS, BRP6HIX are all great options but I personally Recommend the BRP6HIX as it is an iridium plug so it will not foul easily and will last a lot longer than standard plugs.

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-B6HS-Standard-Spark-Plug/dp/B0000BXHSP
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Direct-2814-Spark-NGK-BP6HS/dp/B006O0FGKE
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BPR6HIX-...F8&qid=1468680773&sr=1-1&keywords=NGK-BPR6HIX

Consider coating your aluminum head gasket in Copper spray as gasket or Ultra copper RTV, this is a super effective way of stopping head leaks on these bikes and the RTV is good for making all kinds of gaskets.

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...rmatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-806...8681201&sr=1-1&keywords=Copper+Spray-A-Gasket
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...aximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-818...8&qid=1468681249&sr=1-1&keywords=Ultra+Copper

I hope that helps if you need anymore help feel free to ask.

Happy Motoring!

Thank you for the reply, I'm really amazed someone would write all that just for some guy on the internet. I will try replacing the bolts, but in the mean time I've noticed that the head of the cylinder has a massive crack all the way through. I'm sure that causes a huge loss of compression right?
 
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I did the same thing on my first bike. Stock heads are really weak. If you got the cash I would replace it with RSE head. It will up your compression, make your engine run cooler, and I have never seen one crack. Glad you found your problem.
 
Thank you for the reply, I'm really amazed someone would write all that just for some guy on the internet. I will try replacing the bolts, but in the mean time I've noticed that the head of the cylinder has a massive crack all the way through. I'm sure that causes a huge loss of compression right?

Hey man I like to help so no problem. I know how hard it is to keep these things running when you just start out so I'd just like to make things easyer for you. Also having air tools will make your life much easier when rebuilding these engines cutting the time down a lot, some parts need them to be removed first time as well, you have three bolts behind the clutch that you will have to get at when replacing bolts and having the air tools means you can put them on tight fast just be careful not to strip anything. Can you take a some pictures of the head and your build?
 
Hey man I like to help so no problem. I know how hard it is to keep these things running when you just start out so I'd just like to make things easyer for you. Also having air tools will make your life much easier when rebuilding these engines cutting the time down a lot, some parts need them to be removed first time as well, you have three bolts behind the clutch that you will have to get at when replacing bolts and having the air tools means you can put them on tight fast just be careful not to strip anything. Can you take a some pictures of the head and your build?

Hey, I bought a new head and now the leak is gone, but it hasn't improved the speed at all. I have a race tomorrow with my friend and it looks like I'm gonna show up with an engine that can barely pull my weight. I'd like to also add that in the past it's been able to make it up a certain hill next to my house, but now it can't make it all the way up. I'm starting to feel really hopeless about this bike.
 
If you ran it with the cracked head for very long it may have caused heating problems from to much air in the cyl.. What does the cylinder look like? Any scoring?
 
I cracked one of the older straight plug heads in a higher compression motor.
Torqued correctly but cracked when I put a load on it.

I would be leery of using air tools to assemble one of these motors.
Too much risk of stripped threads and broken hardware.

It only takes 20 minutes to completely disassemble one anyway.
 
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