Recommended Engine Oil Brand?

[Hal the Elder]

Hello...

I was advised to use a single-viscosity, non-synthetic, 40-weight engine oil for my new Whizzer.

What brand is best?

Thanks...
HAL

 

[MotorbikeMike]

Whizzer oil

Hal, it is a low compression, old-style flahead with improed bearings on the bottom end.

It would probably run on crankcase drippings form Flathead Ford cars from the late 1940's!

I use, and will continue to reccomend ANY automotive 40wt engine oil that is clean and you can get your hands on!

We change our oil often, so grand and glorius fancy, madison avenue additives will probably do us exactly no good!

I have used most of the brands on the market here with equal sucess.

The coolest thing I have found about oil changes are these two concepts.

#1 get a pointed "squirt cap" off of a gear oil, or hydrolic oil, or some other bottle so you can squirt a thin stream of oil into the engine.

#2 you can drain your old oil into a ziplock type sandwich back quite nicely!

Mike

 

[Hal the Elder]

Thanks, Mike!

I can't believe the oil capacity of the Whizzer engine: EIGHT OUNCES!

Heck...I drink more than that with a big glass of water!

I guess the Whizzer's lubrication requirements are a bit less stringent than those for a Formula 1 Ferrarri...

HAL

 

[RdKryton]

I use Castrol because it is what I can get my hands on easily. I also change it much more frequently than you have to.

Jim

PS DON'T use synthetic oil. The cylinder will never seat to the rings.

 

[jbcruisin]

oil

Yeah, I use Castrol too. The guy at the Auto Zone store suggested it & my racing friends use it.

 

[Mountainman]

old grandpa adding water to his oil !!!!!!!!

Hal
It would probably run on crankcase drippings form Flathead Ford cars from the late 1940's!
Mike

I also believe that Mike

my grandfather was happy to see those drippings
meant that he still had oil in there
being dirt poor at times some would have to add a little water to their
oil so as to keep the level up above the oil pump

yes -- we have it good today -- thank you God

ride that MB thing

 

[galliano]

I contacted Dave at Whizzer a few days ago concerning oil in the NE5. He suggested I break it in with a straight 40w as there would be less foaming. Once broken it after a couple of hundred miles it would be safe to use a synthetic 20-50w multigrade. He stated the synthetic oils he had tested reduced engine temp by at least 18 degrees. I also asked about the glazing clutch problem and he stated since my bike was new that another method (unpublished) was to put the bike front wheel against a wall and get the clutch to smoking and a little and that would likely correct any clutch glazing. I assume that he has had some experience with the later Whizzers. I do remember my correcting the clutch chatter in a 1936 Dodge coupe by setting the brake and slipping burning and the clutch for a short while when revving the engine. That usually smoothed out the clutch for awhile. Since I am new to this forum, I have not yet seen or heard these remedies here. From what I have seen, it seems some of the members are very well versed in the Whizzer and fixes. From those with better information, does any of the above information seem plausable. Thanks for any help. BG

 

[RdKryton]

Hi galliano
Post #10 in this thread gives detailed info on the auto clutch glazing issue.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=16462
Good luck
Jim

 

[go-rebels]

Isn't the claim that multi-viscosity oil will blow out?

Has anyone really ran a multi-voscosity oil to determine if it really does blow out?

 

[Kep1a]

My friend put synthetic in his whizzer with 700 miles and found that the synthetic oil would foam and get pushed out the breather vent at the rate of 1oz per ten miles. He drained it and went back to 40wt. Note this motor required the use of Quentons PCV oil separating breather system to eliminate the oil mess on the back of the bike with even 40wt. With 40wt oil the oil loss was eliminated.

Kep