my grandfather was happy to see those drippings
meant that he still had oil in there
being dirt poor at times some would have to add a little water to their
oil so as to keep the level up above the oil pump
I contacted Dave at Whizzer a few days ago concerning oil in the NE5. He suggested I break it in with a straight 40w as there would be less foaming. Once broken it after a couple of hundred miles it would be safe to use a synthetic 20-50w multigrade. He stated the synthetic oils he had tested reduced engine temp by at least 18 degrees. I also asked about the glazing clutch problem and he stated since my bike was new that another method (unpublished) was to put the bike front wheel against a wall and get the clutch to smoking and a little and that would likely correct any clutch glazing. I assume that he has had some experience with the later Whizzers. I do remember my correcting the clutch chatter in a 1936 Dodge coupe by setting the brake and slipping burning and the clutch for a short while when revving the engine. That usually smoothed out the clutch for awhile. Since I am new to this forum, I have not yet seen or heard these remedies here. From what I have seen, it seems some of the members are very well versed in the Whizzer and fixes. From those with better information, does any of the above information seem plausable. Thanks for any help. BG
My friend put synthetic in his whizzer with 700 miles and found that the synthetic oil would foam and get pushed out the breather vent at the rate of 1oz per ten miles. He drained it and went back to 40wt. Note this motor required the use of Quentons PCV oil separating breather system to eliminate the oil mess on the back of the bike with even 40wt. With 40wt oil the oil loss was eliminated.