Zeda80 engine build.(obtaining parts and game plan) (69.4cc)

My motor is finally purchased...i went with the pre sale option at $109 ,delivery im not sure when will take place..This will be somewhat of a slow build as im only expecting to invest so much per month towards the build and im in no hurry anyways..lol

You can find this particular motor and alot more sold through
ZedaMotorsports.com

Expect lots of before and after pics of the build.

Ill start with bottom end and show more as it happens.

So, heres the game plan for the bottom end build...To start, the motor will be taken apart and inspected prior to the changes and thoroughly cleaned.

(Bottom end)
1. Balanced crank (Zeda factory)
2. Lightened rod and pin
4 RB Tech 6202 2RS C3 (ABEC 3) premium crank and clutch bearings.
4. Upgrade upper rod bearing.
5. Seal retainer. (comes with motor)
6. Arrow (Red) metallic clutch pads

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I would drill it for best not-sloppiness, to hold it is actually not too hard when you are determined. I found most anything can be superglued to a piece of wood and when I'm not worried about the finish (nearly never concerned as I can refinish just about any surface) I just do that and remove the excess glue/wood splinter with a razor blade.

Superglue to a piece of wood. Now that, I like!
I think I will start looking for some 1mm thick 14mm OD washers.. bronze would be better than copper, wouldn't it? Idk much about metals, even less these sorts of metals.

 

[Frankenstein]

Superglue to a piece of wood. Now that, I like!
I think I will start looking for some 1mm thick 14mm OD washers.. bronze would be better than copper, wouldn't it? Idk much about metals, even less these sorts of metals.

Just about any alloy of copper will be stronger than copper, there's a reason why they wasted so much time mining tin during the bronze age.

Brass is easier to find than bronze when it comes to hardware, I assume that remains true across the Atlantic. Just get whatever you can find I guess, I suggested brass specifically with a new drill bit since of all the common materials you'll find a washer in that will withstand heat you'll have the easiest time drilling brass. You can even pick up an old penny and flatten the faces down a bit and drill that, just use an older copper penny (USA pennies not your weird penny thing) and not the new zinc ones that I suspect would deteriorate faster since zinc is so soft.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Just about any alloy of copper will be stronger than copper, there's a reason why they wasted so much time mining tin during the bronze age.

Brass is easier to find than bronze when it comes to hardware, I assume that remains true across the Atlantic. Just get whatever you can find I guess, I suggested brass specifically with a new drill bit since of all the common materials you'll find a washer in that will withstand heat you'll have the easiest time drilling brass. You can even pick up an old penny and flatten the faces down a bit and drill that, just use an older copper penny (USA pennies not your weird penny thing) and not the new zinc ones that I suspect would deteriorate faster since zinc is so soft.

British pennies are copper plated steel since 1992 (previously bronze). Pre-2011 five pence pieces are cupronickel 75%Cu 25%Ni but are now nickel plated steel due to the rising prices of metals.
I'm looking up the composition of the U.S. penny...

Oh it's copper plated zinc, but it's 1.52mm thick anyway. Hmm....

 

[gary55]

Break out the belt sander.

 

[6blueoval9]

Ok..someone send me an actual link to a quality 10x14x15 bearing.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Ok..someone send me an actual link to a quality 10x14x15 bearing.

Ha good luck with that!
From all my reading and searching I believe you want a genuine Stihl 028 (not Stihl compatible- that's the same as the stock!) bearing.
But if you can find or make a couple of reliable spacers more easily, I think there's nothing wrong with the 10x14x13mm "50cc scooter" bearings.

 

[6blueoval9]

Ha good luck with that!
From all my reading and searching I believe you want a genuine Stihl 028 (not Stihl compatible- that's the same as the stock!) bearing.
But if you can find or make a couple of reliable spacers more easily, I think there's nothing wrong with the 10x14x13mm "50cc scooter" bearings.

The bearing i purchased is the same in size as stock or the stihl bearing.

Ill just see how it does..i think most failures are due to human error or ask too much from the motor.

Im not building a 10k plus rpm motor here and my power will be off idle to maybe 7 or 8 k...i dont plan any 5 mile wot runs or running extreme high temps here.

From what i can tell failure is a small percentage compared to non failure.

Ill research it more when i build an all out motor.

 

[6blueoval9]

What would be the best thing to make shims from? Perhaps chop up a cheap stock bearing cage?
What is this extra .125mm drilled out of his crankshaft flywheels?

I have a 10x14x13 scooter bearing, similar to the OP's but without the "racing silver finish". I had noticed that it will "walk" to the side, so I wouldn't mind having a go at this some time.

Scooter wrist pin bearing (top)

• FurryOnTheInside
• Sep 2, 2017

This scooter bearing cage seems like it has less stress risers than the stock bearing cage...

I like that idea to cut a stock bearing cage in half then grind away each side till it takes up the slack but i read its more like 1.5mm of slack on each side..maybe thats just one specific motor but i suppose a check to be sure would be a good idea.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I like that idea to cut a stock bearing cage in half then grind away each side till it takes up the slack but i read its more like 1.5mm of slack on each side..maybe thats just one specific motor but i suppose a check to be sure would be a good idea.

Now that my engine is put together it's not possible for me to check all my facts so it's all just IIRC.
I have no spare stock wrist pin bearing to measure, but I think stock is 15mm long and a small amount of play is necessary for expansion and lubrication. Standard thin steel washers are 1.25mm but I like the idea of cutting spacers from a spare stock bearing cage too.

I think I will try to use the 13mm long scooter bearing in my next build and just leave the stock bearing in my present build since it's already been put together, and I have worn out the motor in my rotary tool on this one build so I can't cut things very easily until I buy a new one.

 

[6blueoval9]

Ive always read 10x14x13 was the stock sized bearing and 10x14x15 was the "upgrade" size wise.