Friction drive problems!

[Frankenstein]

It may not add up to you. It adds up to me, and to others, I'm presuming.
Trucks on the freeway is a simile, to put it into perspective.

Come on, don't take this as a direct corelation of automobile application/operation and small engines on bicycles.

I'm not comparing bullet train engines in my perspective.

We're getting away from the point, why the clutch and roller are self-destructing.

I still say it's the HuaSheng engine and clutch.

Engine-specific.

Armchair troubleshooting.

Why exactly though is slamming the gas a bad thing with a freewheeling drivetrain in a lower gear than what's needed for the current speed? You still have not answered that accurately...

 

[Frankenstein]

Or directly I should say..

 

[Frankenstein]

OK wait, the clutch grabs the bell at a slower rpm than the bell, and that bell spinning at that speed is either forced to slow down quicker than it's rated to while under load, or the clutch is forced to speed up rotation faster than spec, and since those are two negatives then yes, something must break. I can see how that would be hard on the clutch with the rest of the linkage spinning along your wheel. It's that sudden tug between the parts that slowly rips it apart, and a freewheel won't help against the sudden clack of the engine overtaking the wheel in rpms (whatever that ratio may be.)

My new question is why are you guys farting around with single speed non-freewheeling wart-like-thing-on-the-back-of-my-bike-engines bikes?

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Why exactly though is slamming the gas a bad thing with a freewheeling drivetrain in a lower gear than what's needed for the current speed? You still have not answered that accurately...

If you cannot figure out why it's not good for my engine to over rev in 1st gear going up or down hill, you have a problem.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

OK wait, the clutch grabs the bell at a slower rpm than the bell, and that bell spinning at that speed is either forced to slow down quicker than it's rated to while under load, or the clutch is forced to speed up rotation faster than spec, and since those are two negatives then yes, something must break. I can see how that would be hard on the clutch with the rest of the linkage spinning along your wheel. It's that sudden tug between the parts that slowly rips it apart, and a freewheel won't help against the sudden clack of the engine overtaking the wheel in rpms (whatever that ratio may be.)

My new question is why are you guys farting around with single speed non-freewheeling wart-like-thing-on-the-back-of-my-bike-engines bikes?

Freedom of choice.
Some guys like single-sprocket low-quality China Girl engines.
Some guys like easy builds/friction drive.
Some guys like mega cc engines on single sprockets.
Some guys like Japanese engines with 8 speeds.
Some guys like low-quality China Girl engines with 3-9 speeds.
Some guys like old engines in old bikes and single sprockets.
One guy likes twin low-quality Chinese engines with 8-speeds.
Some guys like electric.

 

[Frankenstein]

Freedom of choice.
Some guys like single-sprocket low-quality China Girl engines.
Some guys like easy builds/friction drive.
Some guys like mega cc engines on single sprockets.
Some guys like Japanese engines with 8 speeds.
Some guys like low-quality China Girl engines with 3-9 speeds.
Some guys like old engines in old bikes and single sprockets.
One guy likes twin low-quality Chinese engines with 8-speeds.
Some guys like electric.

It was mostly a rhetorical question as you could see by the over exaggeration of the hideousness of your choice of style, but I'll still give you the win because I'd of probably replied in the same tone if I were you (only better looking.)

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

"The hideousness of your choice of style"

That went over my head, but who cares.

 

[yoyofred]

Still waiting on parts! Looks like they are lost in Chicago. Dave seems to think the clutch is spinning off backwards he said they will do that every once in awhile. I asked him about the engine, and he said that shouldn't be the problem. If this happens again I'm moving on to the next build!

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

That seems like a possible cause, but I doubt it.

Every single one of my Staton rollers were VERY tight onto the clutch drum.

I had to destroy the drums while removing the roller and bearing.

 

[Robert Douglas]

Hey everyone! This is my first post, and I'm new to motorized bikes. I recently purchased a friction drive kit from bike berry with the 49cc four stroke. Wow what a blast for a couple days! Until the clutch drum ripped in two. The customer service there was not the best, and instantly blamed me for the clutch and drum failing. I was totally disappointed in the way they treated me, so I decided I would just take the loss and buy a staton kit and use my motor on it. I bought the kit with 1 inch roller because that is what Dave recommended, and it does feel like the right fit for my weight. I love riding the bike it goes right up the hills even with my 230 lbs of weight. However, going down the hills is stripping out my clutch drum, pulling the threads right out. It has done this twice with two different clutch drums. I used red locktite and everything. This last one I even JB welded it on after it striped the last time. Hey I got 8 miles out of it lol! Anyone else have this problem? If so what did you do to fix it?