Cranbrook Build

gary55 · May 18, 2019

Spare_Parts said:
Ordered another sleeve cylinder. Have an idea for a boost port that is fed externally from a tube going to the transfer or crankcase. Thought about putting a window in the piston so that can could feed one but think that jb weld will mess me up. Would have to cut it by hand and grinding the steel then hitting the jb in the intake port could be a problem.

Lovin that bike. I get not wanting a 3rd port all the way down on the sleeved cyl. Wouldn't a boost port channel extending a little below the intake and above to transfer height with a windowed piston work? Maybe hold the JB back a little in the intake. It will make more case volume, but with a reed your case pressure should be fine. Just thinkin out loud. Talkin stretches this was my second bike. A buddy of mine build the frame.
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Spare_Parts · May 18, 2019

gary55 said:
Lovin that bike. I get not wanting a 3rd port all the way down on the sleeved cyl. Wouldn't a boost port channel extending a little below the intake and above to transfer height with a windowed piston work? Maybe hold the JB back a little in the intake. It will make more case volume, but with a reed your case pressure should be fine. Just thinkin out loud. Talkin stretches this was my second bike. A buddy of mine build the frame.
View media item 60725

Very nice!

I'll have to explain better later. Have to run out.

Spare_Parts · May 18, 2019

So for the boost port there are a couple of ideas in my head. One reason to do an external fed is the port could be pointed directly at the exhaust port and the feed side could use the piston skirt to time it. Only have it open for a few degrees so that way it doesn't just blow fuel out of the exhaust port.

Then there is the common boost port but not extended to the bottom of the cylinder and use a windowed piston which is 3 fold in it cools the wrist pin bearing/ piston crown as well as lubrication and of coarse an extra port. Now the problems are 1, cutting the steel sleeve with some sort of precision 2, if the window lands in the intake port that is filled with jb weld. Any ideas on carving the cylinder wall besides a burr? No access to a mill but have a drill press I'll beat on lol. No cross slide either. Just thought of something, maybe I have some pipe that will fit into the bore that can be cut as a guide. That will keep the burr grom marring the cylinder if it jumps. Still open to ideas and input on these ideas.

Spare_Parts · May 19, 2019

So I have tube that fits the cylinder bore. Had to slot and hose clamp it to fit. Going to open the slot up to about 12mm I guess. Decided to do a window in the piston and the boost port will start at the botom of the window at bdc. Seems the best route with the benefits of cooling and lubrication.

Boost port guide 2

Spare_Parts
May 19, 2019

Boost port guide

Spare_Parts
May 19, 2019

Also got the pipe painted, tank sealed and started on the electrical. Still have to make a new intake with the smaller ID tube. Using some 1" emt conduit that is 26mm id I think. Stupid pipe sizes make 0 sence to me. More pictures coming latter.

gary55 · May 19, 2019

Spare_Parts said:
So I have tube that fits the cylinder bore. Had to slot and hose clamp it to fit. Going to open the slot up to about 12mm I guess. Decided to do a window in the piston and the boost port will start at the botom of the window at bdc. Seems the best route with the benefits of cooling and lubrication.

Boost port guide 2

Spare_Parts

May 19, 2019

Boost port guide

Spare_Parts

May 19, 2019

Also got the pipe painted, tank sealed and started on the electrical. Still have to make a new intake with the smaller ID tube. Using some 1" emt conduit that is 26mm id I think. Stupid pipe sizes make 0 sence to me. More pictures coming latter.

Great idea. How you gonna hold it in place? I would try it on a crap cylinder first just in case. Don't know if these dimentions would be ideal or not for you since your using a window and not going all the way to the bottom but the channel on the bottom is 17.3mm wide below the intake, 11 mm wide above and 2.6mm deep. Just spiffballin as to why. Guess for more velocity, but don't know for sure. Might be fine the same size all the way up.
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Spare_Parts · May 19, 2019

Thanks for the picture. Jennings mentioned tapering the depth of the transfers and boost ports in as they get to the top. I would think the port you posted has a similar effect. Thinking about ways to do the port. Have more reading to do. Like does it have that much of an effect? How deep is enough and what is too much? The zms was way to deep imo, too much added case volume.

Zeda Transfers 2

Spare_Parts
Mar 24, 2018
4

The tube is very tight in the cylinder. Had to compress it with a hose clamp and dewalt impact. It won't turn in there.

Spare_Parts · May 19, 2019

Waiting on the headlight and levers to finish it up.

Electrical box

Spare_Parts
May 19, 2019

Left

Spare_Parts
May 19, 2019

Top

Spare_Parts
May 19, 2019

Right

Spare_Parts
May 19, 2019

Spare_Parts · May 24, 2019

Ordered the dual pull lever from eBay and junk. So ordered a dual pull Dia-Compe Tech 77 and matching locking level for the clutch. $60 on levers lol! Headlight came in and it is super nice. Ordered a H4 led bulb for it. Going to put the Sunlite levers on till the new ones come in.

Headlight

Spare_Parts
May 24, 2019

Headlight side

Spare_Parts
May 24, 2019

Spare_Parts · May 25, 2019

Got the light mounted and couldn't be happier. Looks so good on this bike. Have to build the new intake, finish some wiring, space the back wheel and finish the cables. Going to be running this weekend!