I always do. Sometimes you get a good one that isn't too bad, other times you get one like what you and I got out of the box. Just a luck of the draw kind of thing.
Well... That Sounded Bad
- Thread starter FrizzleFried
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MechMike219
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wait.. so... youre supposed to grease those bevel gears? 
i dont even have a cover on mine
i dont even have a cover on mine
Nickt919
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What IR98 looks for…the way it “should be” is both crank weights inline with each other, parallel, and both shafts inline and perpendicular to the weights so the whole apparatus spins true with minimum vibrations.
If a true condition exists, the bevel gear and the magneto magnet will not spin wobbly. This has never been the case for me over 6-7 engines and it takes tedious work to get it all to spin close to perfectly true. The closer you get it to true the smoother your engine runs and that bevel gear will look to spin true and not eat up teeth.
My methods are a bit unorthodox but it’s a means to the same end…
Get it all spinning true.
A crank cost sbout $40. If you should start doing this i’d suggest get one and work on it. When you get it all to your satisfaction, then switch it out. This way you’re not rushing to get the engine back together.
If a true condition exists, the bevel gear and the magneto magnet will not spin wobbly. This has never been the case for me over 6-7 engines and it takes tedious work to get it all to spin close to perfectly true. The closer you get it to true the smoother your engine runs and that bevel gear will look to spin true and not eat up teeth.
My methods are a bit unorthodox but it’s a means to the same end…
Get it all spinning true.
A crank cost sbout $40. If you should start doing this i’d suggest get one and work on it. When you get it all to your satisfaction, then switch it out. This way you’re not rushing to get the engine back together.
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FrizzleFried
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Unfortunately I do not have the stand... nor do I have the meter... nor the expertise.
>sigh<
I'm gunna hope bottom end #2 looks better when I spin it. I'll look in to what I can do to build a stand and to acquire the necessary tools.
>sigh<
I'm gunna hope bottom end #2 looks better when I spin it. I'll look in to what I can do to build a stand and to acquire the necessary tools.
D
Deleted member 33388
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I have a question. A guy I know destroyed his piston, we replaced it . And now he says it's vibrating badly on top end. He is also been having bevel gear issues. Could the mishap with the piston made the crank untrue? And messed it up as well? Thanks
FrizzleFried
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I can only assume it would. Watching how people true these things ... it's not an exact science. You literally have to either use channel locks to squeeze... a crow bar to expand... or a big-ass hammer to take a whack at either side of the crank. It's all about ... tweaking ... it seems. As such... i can only assume a massive "disruption" in the head area could throw the crank out...
FrizzleFried
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I'm considering pulling mine apart and "eyeballing" it. I am 100% sure I could get it better than it is now just by observation. Enough tweaking ... and with my eyes ... and plenty of measuring ... I am confident I can improve the situation. Can I get it perfect? Probably not... but I can certainly get it "much better".
It also gives me a chance at pulling one of these bad boys apart. Watching a tear down, they really are very simply engines... and while I might be a little hesitant at taking a 4-stroke apart initially... looking at the simplicity of these 2-strokes... I'm confident I can get it done... easily even.
EDIT: I will have to rig up a stand of some sort however. That said... I bet the crappy bike stand I picked up from Amazon last year would work!
It also gives me a chance at pulling one of these bad boys apart. Watching a tear down, they really are very simply engines... and while I might be a little hesitant at taking a 4-stroke apart initially... looking at the simplicity of these 2-strokes... I'm confident I can get it done... easily even.
EDIT: I will have to rig up a stand of some sort however. That said... I bet the crappy bike stand I picked up from Amazon last year would work!
Nickt919
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You have the expertise. If you built that Hyper bike to its current state you definitely have the ability. A little digging to learn is all it takes.
The dial indicator and magnetic base is cheap at Harbor Freight. The stand can be made easily too.
It you continue to eat up gears then maybe look in to it
Nickt919
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Use a hard rubber mallet and wooden wedges. Stuff you know is softer than the crank metal. Also be very aware where the seals ride and be extra careful not to scar these areas. The crank metal is soft. It scars and dents easy. I've butchered up a couple from not following this advice myself.
Edit:
It really does not take much effort to move the pieces of the crank. It seems like it would but the "whacks and Squeezes" are way softer than you'd imagine. It all moves easily....go at it soft until you get a feel for what it takes to move the pieces the way you want them to go.
I kept on over correcting one from using too much force. It is now too loose to use. It doesn't take any effort for the pieces to move now. I wouldn't trust it. The trick is to move it as little as possible and getting it aligned.
