Well... That Sounded Bad

[FrizzleFried]

Question:

During prep of the bottom end... one thing to do is remove the cylinder mounting rods(?), add some blue lock-tite, and then re-install using the jam-nut method.

Last time-round one rod seemed to go quite a bit lower than the others... enough so I stopped prematurely.

I was tightening to 144 inch/lbs. I figured that was what was necessary in order to tighten the nuts to 144 inch/lbs and NOT have it take the rod out when removing...

Is my thinking on this correct? Am I supposed to tighten the rods to 144 inch/lbs? Was that "deep" one maybe drilled too deep? It ended up being so deep it didn't touch the nylon of the lock-nuts I replaced the acorn nuts with...

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Question:

During prep of the bottom end... one thing to do is remove the cylinder mounting rods(?), add some blue lock-tite, and then re-install using the jam-nut method.

Last time-round one rod seemed to go quite a bit lower than the others... enough so I stopped prematurely.

I was tightening to 144 inch/lbs. I figured that was what was necessary in order to tighten the nuts to 144 inch/lbs and NOT have it take the rod out when removing...

Is my thinking on this correct? Am I supposed to tighten the rods to 144 inch/lbs? Was that "deep" one maybe drilled too deep? It ended up being so deep it didn't touch the nylon of the lock-nuts I replaced the acorn nuts with...

the rods are known as studs, and no, you actually don't need to torque them. Just spin them in until they stop. When tightening a nut on a stud very little rotational force is applied through the stud itself, and the stud will generally resist spinning since the forces of the nut against the stud at one end and the threads of the case counter one another. This is why studs are actually used and considered superior to bolts for use in clamping applications as the actual torque applied to the nut is more accurate and consistent.

 

[Chainlube]

Question:

During prep of the bottom end... one thing to do is remove the cylinder mounting rods(?), add some blue lock-tite, and then re-install using the jam-nut method.

Last time-round one rod seemed to go quite a bit lower than the others... enough so I stopped prematurely.

I was tightening to 144 inch/lbs. I figured that was what was necessary in order to tighten the nuts to 144 inch/lbs and NOT have it take the rod out when removing...

Is my thinking on this correct? Am I supposed to tighten the rods to 144 inch/lbs? Was that "deep" one maybe drilled too deep? It ended up being so deep it didn't touch the nylon of the lock-nuts I replaced the acorn nuts with...

You be smellin' plastic burning soon.

 

[Whitewill1412]

You be smellin' plastic burning soon.

that's what I was thinking too

 

[Wrench]

Yeah nylon lock nuts are not for areas that get hot,

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Stover nuts work great though.

 

[FrizzleFried]

...according to this site:

A286 Lock Nuts | A-286

A-286 Lock Nuts including Flexloc and Polymer Insert Lock Nuts For Elevated Temperature & High Strength Applications

www.extreme-bolt.com

Nylon lock nuts can be used up to 350f.

The highest temp I've ever recorded on the Phantom was 318f.

Having used it up to 318f... I can say "for sure" the Nylon is fine... there has been no "melting"... or "smell".

That said... those 286 lock nuts look interesting.

 

[Nickt919]

I never torque just the studs, do make sure the lengths are equal, and try to make sure there’s a full nuts length of threads sticking up when everything is installed….blue loctite.

Sometimes an odd stud will barely be hand tight when I make them all stick up the same length. I do make sure there’s plenty threads threaded in the case. The loctite just needs to keep the stud still until the head is torqued.

I’ve never been able to tighten all 4 studs fully tight into the case and have all 4 equal length AND stick up above the head far enough to provide a full nuts worth of threads.

I’m on my 5th engine case with this.

Sometimes the studs point in 4 different directions when I pull the cylinder off. Makes me think the Chinese kids who drilled and tapped the cases had held the cases between their feet and used a hand drill to drill the stud holes.

 

[FrizzleFried]

Welp... I (obviously) did it wrong last time around. This time ... I shall not. Thank you all for the feedback.

 

[Wrench]

...according to this site:

A286 Lock Nuts | A-286

A-286 Lock Nuts including Flexloc and Polymer Insert Lock Nuts For Elevated Temperature & High Strength Applications

www.extreme-bolt.com

Nylon lock nuts can be used up to 350f.

The highest temp I've ever recorded on the Phantom was 318f.

Having used it up to 318f... I can say "for sure" the Nylon is fine... there has been no "melting"... or "smell".

That said... those 286 lock nuts look interesting.

If those are the high temp lock nuts you used Then your fine,

But if you got off the shelf Nylon lock nuts from Lowes or Home Depot the nylon is gonna loose it hold strength after many heat cycles.

You'll be able to tell when taking the nuts off/on, because you'll be able to screw em on by hand past where the nylon starts