Home Made Dyno

I have been mulling over how to come up with an inexpensive Dyno setup to test engines (or bikes with engines).but I am not 100% sure what the the objective is.First I will discuss the engine case.
The purpose of a Dyno is to put the engine under load at differents speeds and measure (or compare) the output relative to to a previous condition for test purposes.It appears to me that the best way to accomplish this would be to let the engine drive a electrical generator,and measure it's output.If the efficiency of this generator is known (or can be measured).The engine output can be measured by measuring the generator output
It fortunately so happens that car generators run at similar speeds as the small engines we are dealing with,that is at 2-3 times car engine speed.They are typically rated at 100 Amp max. at 12.5 V or a power of 1.25 kW, which corresponds to 1.7 HP at 1200 rpm,and higher power at higher speeds (the output voltage is roughly proportional to rpm)
This suggests connecting the engine with some sort of coupling device to the generator,loading the generator with a resistor to present a load to the engine and measuring the power output of the generator to arrive at the engine power for a particular speed.The power the generator delivers can be controlled by varying the rotor current,which controls the generator output voltage.If the load resistance is known the power output can be readily computed from P= V*V/ (740*R) , P stands power in HP V*V stands for Voltage squared.I know this looks intimidating to the math challenged,so I will give an example,lets assume the generator output voltage is 20V and R=1 Ohm, so we get V*V= 400 and P= 400/740 or 0.54 HP.This is the generator output,if the efficiency of the generator is known we can find the engine output.Lets assume it is 80 %,then the engine output works out to be 054/0.80=.67 HP.One fly in the ointment could be that we need a low Ohm resistor(s) that can handle quite a lot of power,lets say in the order of 2000 W (2.7 HP) without going up in smoke.
The best solution is to use a custom made resistor made of resistance wire and put it in a waterfilled container and use evaporation cooling (steam),this is not dangerous or uncomfortable with proper grounding (and may be venting), the voltages are relatively low ,below 50V dc.There has to be enough water in the container to submerge the resistor of course.The best value still needs to be determined,since it depends on numerous factors.
There is another problem that may be more difficult to grasp,as I mentioned previously the generator output increases roughly with the rotational speed squared which implies the the power it absorbs from the engine increases also in the same ratio.for instance at twice the engine speed the power absorbed would go up fourfold,unless either the rotor excitation current was reduced or the load resistor increased (or both).We don't want to mess with the resistor unless we have to,that leaves the rotor current control.We know that a particular output voltage is related to a certain output,lets say 1HP,it turns out to be 27 V (with our 1 Ohm resistor).So if we manage to regulate the generator output to 27V with the rotor current control,we've got it made!.This voltage control is what car generators are made to do by the ( nowadays usually built in ) voltage regulator, of course they are set up to regulate the generator output to 14.5 V for the car battery not to some other voltage of our choosing.There are a number of solutions to this problem,with an external regulator as found in older cars it's not difficult,with built-in ones it get's a bit messier.You have to tear into the thing and know what you are doing.
Assuming now we are set up to require the generator to be regulated to a particular voltage.We crank up the throttle until the engine reaches the speed at which that voltage is reached.So we are basically looking for the rpm at which a particular power is produced,that may be at full throttle or less,we may not get there,then you will have to dial in a lower target voltage (power)
Adapting this system to whole bike measurements,obviously the rear wheel must be put in contact somehow with a roller that now drives a generator,instead of being driven by an engine.Exactly the inverse situation.So a rollerdrive system could be adapted.The challenge would be to keep it from slipping at the higher powers while not overloading bearings and the like.I am an electrical engineer and leave such matters to more qualified members
I hope to have made matters reasonable clear to interested parties and invite your comments and suggestions.Let me make clear that I have no intention in building any such Dyno test system myself ,but would be prepared to assist others who might be so inclined.I think there is a definite need and I am convinced that it would be relatively inexpensive to construct
 
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i got an idea. why not take a bike rim and tire the same size as your bike put your sprocket on it. fill it with water weight it, calculate on paper how much power it would take to accelerate the rim to x velocity per second time, measure how fast it would take your motor to accelerate the rim to x speed. find horsepower.
 
Hi All,

In thinking more about this, I think the lowest price we can get away with for a "dyno" would be to make a drive train for the test engine to spin a fixed resistance....For resistance we could use an old lawnmower engine (readily available for cheap but needs to be a horizotal engine) and restrict the exhaust as needed for even more resistance.....We could have a digital tach attached to the engine being tested and a digital stopwatch side by side....A video camera would be used to film the 2 gauges so one can go back and plot the time VS RPM on a frame by frame basis if needed (this was the other hard part of the dyno testing.....actually logging the info )...

One can "calibrate" the dyno by spinning the resistance engine with an electric motor of known output (or could use another gas engine but either power source would have to be in good shape and make rated power) and record the time VS rpm of the resistance engine and scale accordingly....

What do you all think of that approach?

Andrew
 
I don't think all that much of it really,it seems rather cumbersome to me and difficult to calibrate.The alternator/resistor combination I proposed acts as a smoothly controlled variable brake.The control input for it comes from a 12 V car battery,via a variable resistance (2-10 Ohms).All you have to do is to crank up the throttle on the engine and increase the load with your control while monitoring the alternator output dc. voltage.When you reach the desired rpm (from your tach) in conjunction with the wanted output voltage (power),you know that the engine has a particular output at a certain rpm& throttle setting.As far as measurements are concerned it involves reading a Tach and a dc voltmeter,what could be simpler.The main problem that I see is relating the input (mechanical) power to the alternator to the electrical output power,which is of course easily arrived at,in short what is what is the efficiency of the device?.As far as PRECISE relative measurement are concerned, they are easy to make, just compare the output voltages at the same throttle& rpm settings,if it increased by say 10%, the engine output power would have gone up by 5%,the efficiency of the alternator being fairly constant is therefore not a factor.As far as the power dissipating load resistor is concerned,that presents no real problem,at least not to someone with my back ground and finding a suitable automotive alternator is not all that much of a problem either,I think.The mechanical problems inherent in the implementation are beyond my expertise.
I suppose different people come up with different approaches and solutions depending on their background.I know most people are scared silly about anything to do with electronics or things electrical in general,mechanicals they can grasp intuitively, allthough a lot of them have a hard time figuring out the distinction between torque & power or between energy &power for that matter.Pay attention to a few things though,ease of conducting tests is important in any test setup and reproducibility of measurements crucial to any engineering endeavor worth engaging in,I speak from experience.
 
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48cc max 1.2kw(1.61hp)/6800rpms
max speed 40kph(24.8mph)(this is just a estimate the engine kit site gives)
max engine torque 2.4nm/4500rpms(1.77lbs/ft)
max no-load speed 8500rpms
torque at rear wheel:
50t 8.9lbs/ft
44t 7.8lbs/ft
36t 6.4lbs/ft
34t 6.0lbs/ft
32t 5.7lbs/ft

66cc max 2.0kw(2.68hp)/5500rpms
max speed 40kph(24.8mph)(this is just a estimate the engine kit site gives)
max engine torque 6.2nm/5500rpms(4.57lbs/ft)
max no-load speed ????rpms
torque at rear wheel:
50t 22.9lbs/ft
44t 20.1lbs/ft
36t 16.5lbs/ft
34t 15.5lbs/ft
32t 14.6lbs/ft
 
SoCal Motor Bicycle racing has it's own dyno at all the races
now thanks to my buddy Ryan the "dyno man"

Here is a pic of msrfan getting his 5 HP Briggs dynoed at the
April 13th race at Grange Motor Circuit.

You are invited to bring your motorized bike out to the Saturday
June 1st race to get your bike dynoed for a small fee.


IMG_0895.jpg
 
I would purchase a electronic rolling road dyno on the spot if it was designed for motorized bicycle use and calibrated up to 10 horsepower.

$2,000 should be a good ball park figure with appropriate software and hook-up devices for O2 sensor, EGT, CHT, Air/Fuel ratio, RPM, ambient air temperature, air flow sensor, fuel flow meter and detonation sensor.
 
I built my first inertia dyno using Performance Trends Data aquisition equipment and software.They have two flavors of basic inertia set ups, 4 channel for around $600 and $1100 for more channels and more features.

If you have the ability to machine your own parts you can build it for a couple hundred more than the software/DA package.I know you guys think very little of pros ,but take my advice,don't build the inertia wheel from anything except CERTIFIED metal preferably 4140. And use quality bearings mounted in solid blocks, not industrial pillow blocks,and the run out of the wheel needs to be <.0001"

You can build a useable flow bench from plans that were published in Popular Hot Rodding in the early 90s, I still have my magazines from then.
 
Dyno your bike on Saturday June 1st 2013 at Grange Motor Circuit.

Trying out different back pressures.


977235_10151585523301668_1025186798_o.jpg


The guts of the machine.


936807_199992056791878_1141100798_n.jpg
 
Bring your Moped or Motorized Bicycle to SoCal Motor Bicycle Racing
huge event this Saturday June 1st 2013 to see what your bike does
on the Dyno.

Ryan explains on this video how he uses his home built FrankenDyno
to tune your bike..

Grange Motor Circuit, Apple Valley, CA near Victorville.


 
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